A Guide to Filters for Lenses


If you ask most consumer-camera owners why they keep a filter on their lens, a majority will most likely reply, “For protection.” Although filters do, in fact, protect the surface of your lens against dust, moisture and the occasional thumb print, the primary function of lens filters is really to improve the image quality of the pictures you take—depending on the filter you’re using and how you use it—in a variety of obvious and not-so-obvious ways.

Are there a few basic filters or do I need to buy many filters?

The most basic filters are ultra-violet reducing filters (UV), Skylight filters and protection filters, which depending on the manufacturer are either glass filters with basic anti-reflective coatings, or in some cases, merely plainclothes UV filters, which isn’t dishonest. To keep the front element of your lens clean and safe, any of the above will suffice, but if you’re looking to protect your lens and improve the image quality of your stills and video, you’re going to want to purchase a UV or Skylight filter.

Without UV haze filter (L); with UV haze filter (R)

UV filters, also referred to as Haze filters, are designed to cut through the effects of atmospheric haze, moisture and other forms of airborne pollutants, each of which contributes to image degradation. UV/Haze filters are available in varying strengths. If you plan on photographing near large bodies of open water, at higher altitudes, in snow or other conditions that magnify the intensity of ambient ultra-violet light, you should definitely consider a stronger level of UV filtration (UV-410, UV-415, UV-420, UV-Haze 2A, UV-Haze 2B, UV-Haze 2C and UV-Haze 2E). Depending on the strength of the UV coatings, UV filters appear clear, or in the case of heavier UV coatings, have a warm, amber-like appearance and require anywhere from zero to about a half stop of exposure compensation.

An alternative to UV/Haze filters are Skylight filters, which are available in a choice of two strengths—Skylight 1A and Skylight 1B. Unlike UV/Haze filters, which have a warm amber appearance, Skylight filters have a magenta tint that is preferable when photographing skin tones or using color slide film, which depending on the film stock often has a blue bias that is typically counterbalanced by the magenta tint of Skylight filters.

Regardless of their strength, skylight filters do not have any effect on the camera exposure, are equal to UV filters in terms of cutting through atmospheric haze and protect your lens against dust, moisture and fingerprints that can all be damaging to lens coatings if not removed in a timely manner.

I’ve found 52mm UV filters for as little as $9.95 and as much as $29.95. What’s the difference and why should one UV filter cost two or three times more than another?

Even though one UV filter might appear indistinguishable from another UV filter costing two or three times as much, the differences between them can be considerable, beginning with the quality of the glass used in the manufacturing process. Though one would suspect there’s little difference between one piece of glass and another, make no mistake about it—there’s glass and there’s glass, and the differences can make a difference in the quality of your images.

The primary criteria of good glass versus so-so glass are the chemical composition of the glass, how it was made and even where it was made. These are followed by the thickness of the glass (the thinner, the better) and the coatings used to minimize flare and maintain optimal color and contrast levels. Although the differences between an inexpensive filter and a pricier filter may not be all that apparent when photographing with a kit zoom lens, they become increasingly obvious when used with costlier, higher-performance lenses.

In the case of color and Polarizing filters, which typically consist of a thin layer of color film (or Polarizing material) sandwiched between two layers of glass, the film is usually bonded to the glass layers in pricier filters. This eliminates air surfaces and other irregularities that can negatively affect the optical purity of the filter when compared to less expensive filters designed to perform the same functions.

The other difference between entry-level filters and the pricier versions has to do with the retaining rings, which in the case of cheaper filters are invariably made of aluminum (a relatively soft metal) that are subject to denting and jamming if they're not screwed on straight. Conversely, the retaining rings used on pricier filters are most always made of brass and as such are less likely to get jammed onto your lens or dent when they strike hard surfaces.

The bottom line is if you go the extra mile (and expense) by purchasing a better lens, you shouldn’t compromise the results of your investments by saving a few dollars on the filter.

What are Kaeseman filters and why are they priced noticeably higher than regular filters?

Kaeseman filters, which are invariably Polarizing filters, are manufactured with more weatherproofing seals than non-Kaeseman filters. They are worthy investments if your photographic interests include traveling to and working in damp, extreme climates.

Aside from UV/Haze and Skylight filters, what other types of filters should I consider for everyday picture-taking?

If you photograph landscapes—or any outdoor scenics for that matter—you should certainly have a Polarizing filter handy at all times. Polarizing filters are best known for making clouds seemingly pop out from darkened blue skies, saturating colors and eliminating glare and reflections from the surfaces of water, glass and other polished surfaces.

Without polarizing filter (L); with polarizing filter (R)

Polarizing filters are mounted in a secondary ring that you manually rotate while viewing your subject through the viewfinder until you dial in the desired level of Polarization. The downside of Polarizing filters is that you lose about three stops of light in the process of optimizing the image, but the results cannot be mimicked using Photoshop plug-ins or other forms of post-capture voodoo.

Polarizing filters are also available combined with additional filtration such as warming filtration (81A, 81C, 81EF, 85, 85B), Enhancing and Intensifying, Skylight, UV/Haze and a measure of diffusion.

Polarizing filters are available in two formats: linear and circular. Though they look and perform identically, circular Polarizing filters are designed specifically for use with autofocus lenses while linear are best used with manual-focus lenses. Circular Polarizers, on the other hand, can be used with AF or MF optics with equal results.

What are Neutral Density filters and how would I use them?

Neutral density (ND) filters are essentially gray-toned filters designed to absorb calibrated degrees of light as it passes through the lens. Most commonly broken down in 1/3, 2/3 and full-stop increments, ND filters are more recently also available as variable-density filters that you can infinitely adjust by rotating the filter on its mount as you would a Polarizing filter.

There are many applications for ND filters. Chief among them is their ability to allow you to shoot at wider f-stops under bright lighting conditions. ND filters are used extensively by filmmakers and videographers as tools that allow them better exposure control due to the limited shutter-speed options afforded by the cinema and video process.

ND filters also make it possible to blur the movement of pedestrian traffic and flowing water under bright lighting conditions by allowing you to drop your shutter speeds while maintaining full control of how much or how little depth of field you desire, based on the amount of ND filtration you place in front of the lens.

What’s the difference between Neutral Density and Graduated Neutral Density Filters?

Neutral density filters are even, edge to edge, in their degree of density while graduated neutral density filters are typically clear on one end and slowly build up density toward the opposite side of the filter. Graduated ND filters are most commonly used to even out scenes containing extreme exposure variations on opposite sides of the frame.

Without graduated neutral density filter (L); with graduated neutral density filter (R)

Examples of these types of scenarios include landscapes in which the top of a mountain is bathed in sunlight, while the valley below lies in shade; and multi-story atriums where the primary source of illumination is an overhead skylight from which the light gradually falls off as it approaches the lower levels. Graduated filters can also be used in evenly lit areas to darken the sky or foreground for stylistic reasons.

In addition to neutral graduated filters, colored grad filters are also available, and are useful for adding a touch of subliminal color into a scene while darkening the foreground or background.

Should I consider warming and cooling filters?

While warming (adding yellow to the scene) and cooling (adding blue to the scene) can be applied to an image file post capture in Photoshop or other image-editing software, there are still those—including film shooters, who prefer to filter the lens at the time the exposure is made.

Most photographers warm or cool their images for aesthetic or mood reasons. A bit of warming is often desired for portraits, or when photographing at midday during the summer months when the sun's light can be bluer and harsh. Warming can also be effective when taking pictures on overcast or rainy days.

Conversely, cooling filters can be used to correct color in images in which the color temperature is too warm to suit your intentions. Warming filters include all 81 and 85-series filters, and cooling filters include all 80 and 82-series filters.

When using cooling, warming and other color filters with digital cameras, it’s important to set the White Balance to a setting close to the ambient color temperature, i.e. Daylight, Overcast, Tungsten, Fluorescent, etc., and avoid Auto WB, which will intuitively try to correct, according to its own parameters, the mood and tone you’re trying to establish. Auto WB may not render results that are in agreement with your personal vision.

I’ve heard landscape photographers talk about Enhancing and Intensifying filters. What makes them so special?

Enhancing  and Intensifying filters are modified to cut some of the orange portion of the color spectrum, which results in higher saturation levels in reds and cleaner, less muddy interpretation of earth tones. They are especially popular for photographing fall foliage and landscapes.

I’ve seen photographers using red, green, yellow, and other color filters. Aside from making everything look red, green, yellow, etc, when should I consider using color filters?

While color filters do make everything look red, yellow, green or whatever color you might place in front of the lens, their most common use is for black-and-white photography.

When shooting black and white, the color of the filter being used blocks that color from reaching the film (or sensor) surface, which depending on the filter color and subject matter, can drastically change its tonal qualities. As an example, shooting through a yellow filter better delineates clouds against blue skies. Orange filters further darken blue skies and make the clouds pop more, and red filters darken blue skies even more and make the clouds pop out most dramatically.

Green filters on the other hand, are effective at improving skin tones in black-and-white portraits.

What are color-correction filters used for?

Color-correction filters, also called cc filters, consist of cyan, magenta, yellow, red, green and blue filters. Each of these is available in 10% increments and is used for modifying or correcting the color balance of mismatched or irregular light sources. The need for cc filters is not as great in these digital days as it was in the time of film. Nevertheless, they are still used by many photographers who would rather correct their images at the time of capture.

Without warming filter (L); with warming filter (R)

As with warming, cooling and other color filters, it’s advisable to avoid the Auto WB setting on your digital camera when using cc filters and instead choose daylight, overcast, tungsten, fluorescent or whatever setting is closest to the ambient lighting conditions under which you’re working.

Are there filters other than the glass screw-on types?

Aside from the glass screw-on filters most photo enthusiasts and pros depend on, there are also polyester, gelatin and resin filters, which are used for both creative as well as technical applications. Usually square or rectangular in form, these filters are most commonly used with filter holders or matte boxes that fit in front of the lens via screw-in or friction mount filter holder adapters. The filters are dropped into place in slots that keep the filters flat and parallel to the front lens surface in order to maintain optimal image quality.

Are polyester, gelatin or resin filters better than glass filters?

It depends on what you mean by "better." If you mean sharper, some of these filters, especially the thinner resin and gelatin filters—depending on the brand and material—are optically purer than glass. They are also lighter to transport, and if you plan on purchasing an entire series of filters, these alternatives will be less expensive than a comparable set of glass filters.

These alternative filters are also handy if you have lenses with differing filter threads. All you need is a single set of step-down rings, starting with the largest thread down to the smallest size, to go along with the filter holder. (These same step-down rings can also be used with screw-in glass filters if you are using lenses with differing filter thread sizes—there’s no need to purchase multiple sets of filters.)

The downside however is that non-glass filters are easily damaged and in the case of gel filters, near impossible to clean when smudged by an errant fingerprint. So if you do go this route, be extra careful when handling them and by all means invest in a box of disposable plastic or cotton gloves.

What are slim filters?

Slim filters have narrow profiles and sometimes lack threads on the forward side of the filter ring. Slim filters, which are available in almost every filter size, are designed for use with lenses featuring angles of view wider than about 74°, or the equivalent of a 28mm lens. By utilizing a thinner retaining ring, the filter is less likely to vignette the corners of the frame. Depending on the make and model, many kit zooms require thin or slim-mount filters.

What other types of filters are there?

There are many types of creative and technical filters available for pros and serious enthusiasts alike. Included among them are filters that produce prism and star-like patterns, filters for close-ups, diffusion, infrared imaging, as well as contrast control. Their creative applications are up to you!

The Takeaway

  • UV / Haze and Skylight filters protect the surface of your lens against scratches, dust, moisture and fingerprints, which in the long term can harm the lens coatings. UV / Haze and Skylight filters also minimize atmospheric haze, which results in better overall image quality. Protective filters also keep dust, moisture and fingerprints at bay, but are not as effective in cutting through atmospheric haze.
  • The difference between an inexpensive filter and a pricier one has to do with the quality of the glass (the costlier filter most likely contains optically purer and thinner glass), the quality of the anti-reflective and color coatings and retaining ring (better filters have brass rings instead of aluminum).
  • Polarizing filters reduce or eliminate distracting reflections from the surface of glass, water and other polished surfaces, darken skies, make clouds pop from their surroundings and saturate color by reducing stray ambient glare.
  • Polarizing filters are also available combined with warming filters, enhancing filters and diffusion filters. Weather-resistant Kaeseman Polarizers are also available for use in extreme, damp climates.
  • Neutral density (ND)filters block varying degrees of light from striking the imaging sensor (or film) in order to shoot at wider apertures under bright lighting conditions, blur moving objects in the frame regardless of ambient light levels and allow for better exposure control when shooting video or film.
  • ND and Color Graduated filters darken or tint the top or bottom (or left and right) portion of the frame while leaving the opposite side untouched. They are useful for equalizing exposures of scenes containing extreme lighting variables on opposing sides of the frame, as well as adding an element of drama to an otherwise good, but not great, image.
  • Enhancing and Intensifying filters are useful for intensifying the color-saturation levels of reds and other earth tones, making them desirable for landscape and foliage photography.
  • CC filters allow you to incrementally adjust the color levels of your cyan, magenta, yellow, red, green and blue channels.
  • Though most photographers rely on conventional glass screw-in filters, lens filters are also available as square and rectangular filters made out of polyester, gelatin and resin. These filters, some of which are optically purer than glass filters, require holders and extra levels of care when handled.
  • If you plan on using one filter on several lenses, you should purchase a slim or thin version to better ensure it won’t vignette the corners of the frame when used on a wide-angle lens.

Items discussed in article


I have an ultra wide lens - Sigma Art 14 mm 1.8f, and I’m worried about damaging the glass. Are the any protective filters for this kind of lens? (Given how round it it’s).

I am now starting up a YouTube channel and replacing my existing camera and glass with equipment that is better at shooting both photos and videos.

So by the time I get the UV, the Polarized, ND filters and maybe a set of macro for a couple of pieces of glass. Should I just invest in a good Filter mounting system (the Conklin system was popular when I was shooting film)? It just seems like it would be a faster way to swap the filters between lenses especially if I went with something like the Tameron lenses that try to keep all the lenses in a given line the same diameter so I would be using the same filters across most of the lenses.

I am asking because I assume that having the UV, and then adding the ND or Polarizing without removing the UV filter would cause and/or add to much distortion to the image.

Hey Andrew,

You are correct - you don't want to stack filters in this manner. UV filters are best used alone. This is because the key benefits of UV filters are incorporated into other glass filters including Polarizers and ND filters - plain window glass eliminates 99% of the UV from the scene.

As for filter choices, read the reviews and invest in the best glass you can afford.


It was really a nice article to read, thanks for that. I am not a pro-photographer nor a videographer. I have an application where I need to record the night road traffic on a highway. Imagine that the camera is positioned on a stand on the divider of the highway. The problem with the recording is that, due to the bright headlight of the vehicles, the recording is not good enough to be analyzed later. All I see is lot of bright lights passing through the roads. SO I was looking for a solution to this issue. I want to reduce the glare coming from the headlight or may be completely remove the glare and record the vehicle as much as possible. Would a polarization filter help here or is there any other sophisticated filter alone for this purpose available ? Or may be an anti-glare lens camera may be ( I am not sure if any such camera is available or not though ). I would really appreciate if you could support me. Thanks in advance.

Unfortunately, the issue you describe is more of an issue of both exposure and dynamic range rather than glare.  As you are shooting at night, you need a longer exposure, a brighter lens, or a higher ISO setting to let more light into the camera to expose for the ambient lighting.  However, when a bright headlight enters the scene, your exposure setting would overexpose the image.  If you set your exposure for the headlights, then the background and ambient lighting will be underexposed.  The dynamic range between the headlights and the background is too wide to get both in the same scene.  The best solution I can recommend would be to expose for the background, and try to position the lights so they do not directly strike the lens of the camera.  If the camera is at an angle to the traffic you are trying to record, using a lens hood may also help block light entering the lens at an odd/oblique angle.  While polarizers do help eliminate glare, direct light is an intensity issue, not so much a glare issue.  While a polarizer may reduce some of the glare, it will also reduce your exposure, causing you to use an even higher ISO setting, which may increase sensor noise in the image, or an even lower shutter speed, which may introduce motion blur into the image.

I have 77mm Tiffen variable ND filter and I want me all lens to fit this filters on it. Is it possible? 

I have some of my lens list sigma 35mm,24mm canon 24-105mm,85mm 

While you do not list the full name of the lenses you own, if you own the Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art Lens for Canon EF, B&H # SI3514C, it uses 67mm filters.  The Sigma 24mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art Lens for Canon EF, B&H # SI2414DGC, uses 77mm filters.  All three Canon 24-105mm lenses also use 77mm filters.  Canon has three different 85mm lenses; one uses 58mm filter threads, one uses 72mm filter threads, and the last one uses 77mm filter threads.  For the filter thread sizes listed above, you would need the Sensei 58-77mm Step-Up Ring, B&H # SESUR5877, the Sensei 67-77mm Step-Up Ring, B&H # SESUR6777, and the Sensei 72-77mm Step-Up Ring, B&H # SESUR7277.  If you happen to have different filter thread sizes, it would be best to e-mail us at askbh@bhphoto.com with the full name, B&H number, or the filter thread size of the lens you own so we may find the correct step-up ring for your lens’ filter thread size.  (You do not need a step-up ring with your lenses that have 77mm filter threads already on the front of the lens).

Hi! I have a canon 5D mark iii with three lenses: 50 mm 1.8, 24-105 mm f4, and 70-200 2.8. I have two questions. One, I will be traveling to Maui, Hawaii in a month - what would be the best filter(s) to capture it's waterfalls, and the tropics? And 2, what filter in general would be best to capture images of people in Times Square, NY at night? Would a polarizing filter allow me to capture both the subject and bring out the colors of the background lights? Most images I take are washed out with all the light and can't seem to capture both subject and buildings perfectly, thank you!

Shooting something like a waterfall and a tropical environment may require two types of filters, one being a circular polarizer to enhance the colors in the image and other being a neutral density filter, which will allow you to shoot at a slower shutter speed in brighter conditions while smoothing out the water.  A good option in this case is to use a drop in filter system such as the NiSi V5 Advanced Filter Kit B&H # NIP100AKIT. The kit will give you the necessary adapter rings for your lenses along with the circular polarizer, solid ND filters and some graduated ND filters to help reduce brightness in the sky when shooting a horizon.


As for capture images of people in Times Square at night, a circular polarizer would not work as well since it’s mainly useful in bright conditions during the daytime. To bring out the colors while shooting hand held, you may need to use a higher ISO range and a fast lens like your 50mm f/1.8, so you can bring more light into the exposure. This would also involve setting the camera in manual mode for the most control.  

Hi! I just bought the Canon 100-400 f4 IS II USM. And of course I also bought a filter to protect the lens. I realized it was a UV-Haze that I had purchased. Now, I know there is mixed feelings about wether you should put a filter or not just to protect your lense. My only concern is, maybe I should have bought just a clear filter for protection, then again, a Haze filter might not be a bad thing, if I take pictures of wild life and animals. So my question is always the same, would a filter reduce the quality of the final result? If I want to protect my lens, should I change for a clear filter? Thanks

Hi Nadine,

Both a UV and clear filter can provide general protection for a lens. However, a UV filter would have the added protection against UV rays while a Haze filter will reduce the bluish cast you may have on a hazy, humid day.  Either way, it would not have a negative effect on your images. If you prefer not to have the UV protection at all, then a clear filter would be fine.

Right on! In my view people today are just plain lazy and do not want to work at their "craft", but expect to be "instant" experts without any basic understanding or putting in the hours and hours of practice. I remember starting out as a rank amateur way back in the "film" days and man it was expensive to learn because I screwed up lots of times. But, I got better, mistakes were fewer and I loved it. Digital is quite cheap as you can take hundreds or thousands of pictures and delete and start over using the same memory card.

Although I have been a professional photographer for over 20 years, in my early days I guess photography was in my blood. I grew up with a camera in my hands so I guess that's why I find it difficult to understand how so many people are absolutely clueless when it comes to the most basic photography knowledge. To address some of these questions, you have to use a little logic and reason, which should come somewhat naturally to intelligent individuals. I've seen people say that it's not necessary to use lens caps because their filter will do the job.  Well, if you spend $200 on a filter, do you really want to expose it to any kind of material that may scratch it? Of course not. Never use your filters as lens caps. That's incredibly lazy and just plain dumb. Another question that threw me for a loop was "I have a lens cap, so why do I need a filter?". Wow. I suggest that this person should sell or just throw away their camera. Filters are absolutely necessary if you want to take your photogrpahy to the next level.  If you are using your DSLR for movies, ND filters are not a luxjury, they're required in order to match your frame rate to the proper shutter speed. If you're photographing a waterfall on an extremely bright day, and you want the classic motion blur effect, you'd better have a good set of ND filters so you can knock down the ambient light in order to maintain a desirable shutter speed. 

I suppose I just don't understand why people are too lazy to read a comprehensive book on photography. Hopefully you can read, and books are incredibly handy for expanding your knowledge of a subject, so read a book on photography instead of asking strangers to answer your sub-amateur questions. The internet is a decent resource for learning, but you need to know enough about photography to know what questions to ask, and which questions NOT to ask. This country's citizens are becoming more and more ignorant about the world around them, even though they have the resources necessary to learn anything you could ever want on the internet. Regardless, when it comes to photography, buy a book that thoroughly explains both the theory and the practice of photography. If you feel that it's a waste of your time, I suggest you pursue a different hobby, like watching television all day. 

This may seem harsh and rude, but frankly, people need a kick in the butt to get their minds right. Read a book on the subject you wish to learn, and you'll be amazed at the results.  Some of you may need to read it a few times before it "clicks", but if something is worth doing, it's worth doing right. 

I just wanted to take a moment to stop and say, “thank you.” I do believe that the soapbox I step up in the most often these days is about the dumbing down of America. When I was growing up, if you wanted to truly learn about something, you researched it and (if you were really lucky), you also had someone to teach you along the way. Even without an instructor, though, you went to the library and checked out books or to the bookstore and bought them. It’s sad to me, that it seems, the more information that people seem to have readily available to them, the less likely they are to use it. 

Wow. A 473 word rant just to opine that lens filters are a necessity. You should also add 'Arrogant' to your "Grumpy Old Phot" handle, as that is what your diatribe reeks of.

I couldn't have said it better!

I'm using a Canon Rebel T5 to record video and still images of a fiber laser engraving stainless steel.  What are some good quality options for this situation?  Thank you.

First of all, wear safety glasses. I am assuming that this laser is emitting in the IR range. If not, wear the appropriate filtered lenses for the frequency of the laser. Lasers can be extremely damaging to your eyes ( and other body parts ).

Second, if you're shooting from close up, put a nice piece of glass between the laser spot and your camera to keep the metal spatter and fumes away from your camera/lense/filter. Also, if the laser can damage your eye, it can damage your camera/optics. You might want  to use the same filter for the camera as you use for your eyes.

Greater distance from the laser spot is safer. Probably avoid macro; maybe tend toward telephoto.

Third, this is like shooting a picture of the sun through the leaves of a tree. No camera has enough range to show the detail in both.

I don't know what your vision is for this shot. Is this an illustration? Are you trying to document the process? Two widely divergent requirements. Neutral density filters might help. Polarizing filter might help.UV filter might help. Gradient filter might help.

Why would  a lensmaker sell you expensive multicoated lens that doesn't have the magic coating of a $10 UV lens filter?! Methinks this is carryover from the days of uncoated lenses and is now a sham.

question, what kind of filter should i use to photograph the solar surface ?

Hi Vanderson - 

Photograph sunspots, surface granulation, eclipses and planetary transits with your telephoto lens and the StarGuy Thread-in White-Light Solar Filter. These filters display the sun in a neutral white color without the red or blue tinting common in many glass and film filters. Made of a tear-resistant solar-viewing film, it is coated on both sides to eliminate the effects of pinholes while the intentional wrinkles improve image contrast and will not affect image quality or safety. The filter ring is made of a durable and lightweight aluminum alloy coated with a reflection-limiting anodized finish. This version of the solar filter has threads that allow it to thread onto the front of 77mm lenses. For the safety of your eyes and equipment, never look or point the camera directly at the sun through a lens without proper solar filters as permanent damage to the gear and your eyes will occur.

After reading this page my knowledge on the different types of filters and their differences are much higher I now have a a question I got a couple of lenses and as the filters are not really cheap considering a good quality theres oter options or should I have to buy a filter for which one of my lenses 


Before you continue to pursue photography, I highly recommend that you go back to school to learn how to properly communicate your thoughts using proper capitalization, punctuation, grammar, and syntax.  My child is in second grade, and he can write grammatically correct sentences and paragraphs.  Your writing ability is a direct reflection of your overall intelligence, and based on what I see here, there's no way you'll ever be able to properly operate a professional or consumer grade camera. Take a little pride in everything you do, including your writing. I suggest rewriting your question using proper punctuation, capitalization, and grammar, then people will take your question a bit more seriously. Secondly, your question doesn't make a bit of sense. Good communication is absolutely necessary if you want to seriously succeed in life. The average American's intelligence is going down faster than Enron stock ever did. Our country is embarrassingly undereducated, and we will all pay the price for the average citizen's lack of intelligence. I literally cringe every time I read the question you posted. I can barely believe that the aforementioned question was written by a functional human being. America has, without a doubt, the most uneducated, ignorant citizens of any other "first world" country. It's no wonder why the rest of the civilized world considers America to be a boil on the face of the planet that needs to be lanced.  

Dear Wesley!

I read your replay to Luis. As a nonnative English speaker, it's bother me. Luis maybe neither a native English speaker. Maybe he is Portuguese. Your second-grade children are better in English than he. Are you better in Portuguese than his children?

Of course, I know English is a “must speak” language, but not a shame if someone not speak it perfectly. It's a good thing he brave enough to ask, maybe from another half of the world. I neither can understand what he wants to ask, but we should ask him to redefine his question! Not blame him!

I wrote you this from Hungary, with not perfect grammar. For me, it's uncomfortable to write in a different language than Hungarian, but I write my thoughts to you, because I hope you understand how lucky you are, and you will be better than the rest of the world things Americans are.

Best Regards, Balázs Horváth from Hungary

Wesley, you didn't have anything to say about photo filters. Luis's question was typically written as it would be by a person for whom English is a second language. I think Balazs covered the waterfront pretty well, but American arrogance, judgmentalism and ignorance of other parts of the world is another source of the world's ill regard for our people.  We can all do better if we take the time to figure out something about the people we meet before we jump on 'em.

How do you know Luis isn't an immigrant? Maybe he isn't even a full citizen. Regardless, it is a perfectly understandable/intelligible post.

Buy a filter for your largest diameter lens. You can get step-up or -down adapters for the lenses. I discourage you from using a filter w/a step-down adapter. It will effectively reduce the max f/stop.

Ex: my 100-200 has a 77mm diameter. I've got a different lens w/a 62mm filter size.  A step down ring screws into the 62mm & the 77mm screws on next. It kinda looks like an odd funnel w/a lens on one side & filter on the other. This is a bit crude & exaggerated, but I hope it clarifies what you could do.

Hi Luis!

Can you rewrite your question in a diferent way? If it's still current..

Regards, Balázs

Luis, having a good filter for your good lenses is a good thing. They can protect your lenses, and you can always remove them if you think the one you have on the lens right now is not going to help your photograph.

Here is a dumb question?   Why can't they make slip on filters like a lens hood?  I fear I would use them more often. Such a pain unscrewing of then on in fear of ruining the threads that are so fine. 

ace the bad and the filterMy iPad doesn't translate English to English very well. I would use slip on filter more. I hate the treads of any filters. To fine a thread. Takes longer to change them 

 iPad doesn't translate English to English very well. I would use slip on filter more. I hate the treads of any filters. To fine a thread. Takes longer to change them 

The price you pay for needing, or wanting to use filters. The time to change filters is worth the price if you want really good pictures, my friend. As far as worrying about cross threading goes, be careful. Hope you get it all figured out, my friend.

This is probably a very dumb question.  I have red and yellow filters left over from the days I shot B+W film.  These filters would darken the blue sky and make the white clouds pop out.  If I set my digital camera to shoot B+W rather than color and use these filterss will they have the same effect as when used with B+W film?


What kind of filter I can use with my Canon EOS camera to shoot the sun ,ight rays in a cloudy morning,

Hello Abo. Avoid looking directly at  the sun, not even thru the camera lens. The previous article gives you basic information about the diffrerent filters and their uses. You can shoot the sun and light rays in a cloudy morning or afternoon with or without filters.  If you shoot directly at the sun you probably have to deal with lens flare so you should understand why and how to control it.

I respectfully suggest that you keep learning the basic notions of photography.You can buy books and look for low cost or free learning resorces in internet. Look and select carefully for the best.  Learn about the controls of your camera. Learn about the different lenses available and their uses. Regardless of the brand of the camera and lenses, and this is the most fundamental thing, learn and understand the basics of photography like composition; sources of light; tonality and  contrast;  color; focusing; exposure (interaction of ISO, aperture and shutter), etc. Filters are accesories that can improve and help if you know when, how and why to use them. Accesories  will not improve your photos unless you understand the basics. Above all, keep shooting. The more photos you take in different places indoors and out under all kinds of light (natural or artificial), the more you'll learn and understand.

I bought a Sigma 18-300mm 1:3.5-6.3 DC 72 from you for my Canon EOS T-3 Rebel. A friend of mine dropped my camera and it broke the lense filter. The filter I had on the lens is B&W XS-Pro Digital made in Germany (B&W 72 010 UV Haze MRC). Do you have a replacement and what is the cost? Is this the best filter to use for the following reasons: I live near the cost of California, take picture during the day and night and take many pictures out of the country. Is there a filter that takes in all or is it best to change filters for instance at night or when I take flash pictures?

The B+W 72mm XS-Pro UV Haze MRC-Nano 010M Filter is still available and you can find current pricing by clicking on the link. A UV filter would be suitable for any situation. If you are shooting under bright sun you could consider the B+W 72mm XS-Pro Kaesemann High Transmission Circular Polarizer MRC-Nano Filter which helps to reduce reflections and glare by filtering out light that has become polarized due to reflection from a non-metallic surface and will also clear up haze in distant landscapes and provides more saturated, vivid colors. The polarizer however will reduce exposure by about 1.5 stops so this only recommended for daytime shooting. 

This gets us onto printing the negative.

The less light that gets through to the paper the lighter the image.

The red flower that has had it's light passed by the red filter, is darker on the negative than it would normally be without the filter and so the part of the negative with the flower on it is 'denser'/darker than it would otherwise be.

This means when the negative is printed, less light from the flower is getting through to the paper than it would've done without a filter being used, which means that the flower is printed lighter than it would've done without the filter being used.

This is the same result as when you look through a red filter at a red flower, it is lighter than it would be without the filter being used.

In mono (B+W) photogprahy, coloured filters do NOT block the colour of that filter getting through, they allow that colour to get through while blocking some of the light of the 'complementary' colours. So with a a red filter, red flowers would show up lighter than normal because more red light has got through to the film but green and blue are darkened because less green and blue light has got through to the film.

Here's the thing. Sony HDR-PJ790v handycam. Takes great videos, whether leaving all the settings on Auto or tweaking some manually. But No matter what settings and filters that I have and have tried(UV haze type, circular polarizer, ND), I have yet to find a filter that will cut through haze like my freakin' sunglasses(which slice through haze and fog, and make everything so pleasing to the eyes because everything is so bright and vivid now), I can't seem to find the right filter lens for my unit that have that same simple result as a pair of sunglasses. The glasses I have are of the amber type which cuts through all of the haze and fog. I remember those As Seen On TV glasses that did the same thing and they were that amber tone as well. Is there a filter with this type of effect? 

Hi Bob - 

Tiffen 52mm Circular Polarizer Filters - Light rays which are reflected become polarized. Polarizing filters are used to select which light rays enter your camera lens. They can remove unwanted reflections from non-metallic surfaces such as water or glass and also saturate colors providing better contrast. The effect can be seen through the viewfinder and changed by rotating the filter. The filter factor varies according to how the filter is rotated and its orientation to the sun.

If you're out walking on a lovely day - in the mountains or at the beach - and you want to get a fabulous shot of a cloud-filled sky or make the water seem more saturated, then a polarizer is the way to go. This filter is the best way to make the clouds stand out, increase or decrease the saturation of the ocean or increase or decrease the reflection off the water. You can also use this filter when shooting into glass or windows since it will, again, either increase or decrease reflections.

What does a CPL lens filter do? Thanks.   Dr. Thakur

CPL stands for "Circular Polarizer" filter which is the type of polarizer required by autofocus cameras and lenses.  Polarizing filters reduce or eliminate distracting reflections from the surface of glass, water and other polished surfaces, darken skies, make clouds pop from their surroundings and saturate color by reducing stray ambient glare.

Very informative B & H... What is the difference of ND 2 ND 4 ND 8 and what it does filtering lights?

I would respectfully disagree with the photographer who tested his glass with steel balls. Over the years I have dropped a camera or two and they always seem to land on the pavement on the edge of the end of the lens. With a UV filter in place they have landed (and broken) the filter! Simple solution-- unscrew the filter and put on a new one. Very very much less expensive. When I think clarity may be an issue, I'll take the filter off with the lens cap when ready to shoot. Yes, filters DO protect my lenses and save a bundle!!

Hi, I have a question regarding ND filters.  I recently purchased a Sony CX330 camcorder to make some personal videos, stuff for YouTube, etc. I am surprised at the excellent picture quality for such an inexpensive camera. I also bought some filters, UV, polarizer, and an ND8 to jazz things up a little. Mysteriously, when I use the ND8, the color balance shifts noticeably to the red side. I have the color balance function on the camera set to AUTO, so it should correct for minor differences, but this is a quite apparent red shift, which I can't really correct by using other color settings (like interior or tungsten).  What would make the color shift like this when using a Neutral Density filter?  I thought "neutral" was the whole point.  Thanks for the help, and if you could, please send a copy of your answer to my email address, bushfilm@gmail.com, so I'll be sure to get it.  Really appreciate the help.

C Bush

Great information. Question taking photos through a blue tinted glass window is there a filter to compensate

If you're shooting with a film camera, this is would be a situation where the light/color cast is cooled by the tinting, and use of a warmer toned filter would help.  The 81-85 series filters discussed in this article could be useful for that, (trial and error would be the method in this isntance since you likely dont have a color temperature rating for the window).  You could apply the same filters for digital, however...

For digital SLR work, the better approach I would recommend is doing a custom white balance with the white balance card on the other side of the window you're shooting through.  This would allow the camera's sensor to be trained on what is  "white" in the composition and as a result, the color scheme as shot through the window would be corrected for.  Its quick and accurate as opposed to taking test shot after test shot using the color balance filters.

I am using a canon sx40 which has the ability to use filters. When taking photos on a moving vehicle that has blue windows the photos come out blue. Which filter if any will correct this problem?

In this instance, refer to my suggestion about the custom white balance with the camera. There is no need to purchase a filter to correct this situation since it can be corrected in-camera.  Further, you can also easily correct the bluish cast using just about any photo editing software, even the free ones available online.  However if you were going to purchase a filter to correct, you would need a warming filter.  Which specific one you would need would be more of a trial and error until you find the right balance for your car window (which is another reason I recommend the custom white balance approach). 

In order to use filter on the SX40, you must first purchase (if you don't have one already) the Canon FA-DC67a filter adapter which will then allow 67mm sized filters to be mounted onto the camera.  See the links below for the filter adapter from Canon (both a Canon version and 3rd party version to choose from) and below that will be a recommended 81a color conversion filter to fit with the adapter:



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